Considering that its spread-out limits enclose nearly a million people, Nice is quite an endearing city along the French Riviera. I've enjoyed kids crossing the street after school, uniforms still relatively neat after days spent playing soccer or maybe jump-rope, and learning a foreign language (English perhaps); I've seen the casual fellowship of off-duty cops or firemen playing Petanc in a vacant lot; enjoyed a kvetching barista's excellent Americano presented in the ever-present white china ILLY cup. I've joined people-watching people at bistro tables occasionally sipping from that glass of white wine. There's a difference between being mellow and just lazing about—these citizens are clearly of the former sort.