A Memorable Overnite

Wednesday - Thursday

26-27 October

Traveling from Levanto in Italia's Liguria all the way to the Rhone river and Avignon, is too long a land journey to complete in a single day—too long, at least, if you want to avoid being numbed by the sheer mass of train-hours, rattling (or merely vibrating, if they're fast new units) along endless, winding rails. Besides, the train's snack bar has only so many wines for sale. So you take a refreshing pause in Ventimiglia.

There are two distinct towns here, each on its own side of the Roya river. East is the new area, radiating out from the rail station. Food markets live here, and trendy shops, and a gigantic weekly outdoor bazaar kind of market that draws beaucoups visitors from nearby French cities. Commercial but a pleasant place to walk through, on your path to ...


The old town, which spills down a hill, higgly-piggly streets whose buildings prop one another up with spanning arches. It seems to be filled with vibrant and friendly citizens, happy enough to have outdoor plumbing running down the outside of stone walls everywhere. The effect fits well with bed sheets and garments hanging way up there, in various degrees of dryness.

You will want to stop at a table and enjoy a glass of local wine. So, do it.

Difficult choices, several of them, to be made for how the time will be best spent here. In the cozy B&B room? Picnicking at the beach?


Or wandering again  (see video below) the odd streets of the Old Town on yonder hill?

Late next morning several more hours await, on a train-ride to



une fois encore