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i get around

A skinny, undulating coastline is one of the first things you notice, upon arrival. Places of interest tend to occur near the water, along this unpredictable margin of Liguria. All routes will run either northwest (more or less) or towards the southeast (also more or less) of wherever you happen to be. So, how to get  efficiently from here to there?

Foremost is the Italian rail system, which is inexpensive and reliable, fairly fast, and has the most wonderfully squeaky brakes imaginable. Do not ever cross that imperious linea gialla until that steel juggernaut has come to a complete pause.


But there are options to be enjoyed, while moving around.


One thing you don't do at any rate, is drive. Randomly placed, narrow roads follow the tortuous contours of the land  — and once you get to the next village there is really no place to park. Legally.


But the funnest mode of travel between towns along the Ligurian coastline, is a water taxi. These powerful vessels roar along out there, past the cliffs, leapfrogging from one landing platform to the next. Although way more costly than the train, still it's worth going by this mode at least once, if only to view the headlands (with occasional, colorful buildings apparently super-glued to the cliffs) from the Mediterranean's expanse.


Maybe the train will bring you here.

Then there's walking. And what can anyone say against the healthy practice of simply trudging along sidewalks and cobblestone lanes and hillside- or ocean-hugging trails, on one's own feet? Some of the very best, most vivid memories of wonderful along-the-way things, cannot be harvested any other way.

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